Winter Footwear, Part I

Here, five different styles, with five different aesthetics.

1. Rugged/Alpine

For those unexpected blizards that can bring 13 inches of snow overnight, you need at least one pair of trudging-through-the-sh-t boots. I lace these things up and don’t have to think twice about what I’m steeping in or on - they’re insulated, completely waterproof and have a virtually indestructible beefy rubber sole.

Where I wore this: Class – “History of Menswear”

Bonus Tip: Red laces? Why not? Winter outfits are generally darker and more muted, allowing an unepected dash of red to be the sole “pop” (no pun intended). Matching stripe on gloves was a coincidence.

Bonus Tip II: Looking for a timeless but inexpensive outerwear piece? Official Navy-issued peacoats are abundant in vintage stores. Try-on a handful of them until you find a proper fit (or at least one that needs minimal alterations). For $50-$100 these classic built-to-last  jackets are a no-brainer.

Bonus Tip III: An accesorry, particularly a lapel pin, can be made of just about anything. It’s a great place to be innovative and add a personal touch. More on unique/unusual acceorries (including the anticapated lapel acceorries) coming soon. (We can only work so fast! We are juggling several projects at once).

Boots by Alife. Navy peacoat vintage (size 36). Shirt by Steven Alan (size M). Cardigan by Rag&Bone (size M). Jeans by APC (size 32). Gloves by Thom Browne (size 9). Vintage ”Roman Coin” brooge.

2. Wingtip Brogue

A leather brogue wingtip is very versatile because it looks both dressy and casual at the same time. These are one of my favorite pairs of boots. They can be dressed up (see here) or down (see here).

Where I wore this: A meeting with potential buyers (samples in duffle bag).

Bonus Tip: When it’s wet out sometimes I tuck my pant hems into my boots to keep them dry. Once you walk inside, simply pull them out and let them fall over the laces.

Boots by Paul Smith. Overcoat by Rag&Bone (size 40). Grey hairline stripe shirt and grey flannel pants by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Knit tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Leather gloves by Hugo Boss (size 9). Leather duffle by Kenneth Cole.

3. High Topsider

The comfort and casual aesthetic of boat shoes but for off-summer  months. Genius. Just remember these are casual shoes, not meant to be dressed up.

Also keep in mind they are unlined leather – so if there’s snow on the ground, you might want to think about thick wool socks.

Where I wore this: A friend’s apartment, then college basketball game at Madison Square Garden

Bonus Tip: Burgundy, or it’s deeper brother “oxblood”, is a versatile and style-forward footwear color that doesn’t stray too far from traditional.

Boots by Sperry. Moleskin peacoat by Fillipa K (size 50). Shirt by Steven Alan (size M). Cargo pants from Army/Navy Surplus store (size “38-40″).

4. Suede Chukka

A chukka is another boot that can easily be dressed up or down. The simple and clean silhouette works as great with slim flannel trousers as it does with straight raw denim.

Where I wore this: Art show in upper manhattan

Bonus Tip: Everybody has suede chukkas in tan, brown and black. Try a more unexpected (but still neutral) color like forest green, burgundy or navy blue.

Bonus Tip II: Leather soles are generally stiffer and slimmer – which makes shoes dressier and sharper in shape. Rubber or crepe soles (like Clark’s famous “desert boots”, for example) are unmistakably more casual in nature – and thus work better with jeans than suits.

Bonus Tip III: A suede boot is a little counter-intuitive. They’re boots that you can’t wear in the rain or snow. This makes them a “luxury” type of item. With that said, a suede chukka should be well-made and sharp, not casual and sloppy.

Suede chukka boots by Church’s. Corduroy blazer and grey flannel trousers byMichael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own design). White oxford shirt by Band of Outsiders (size 3). Cashmere cardigan by Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (size 2). Watch by Montblanc.

5. Oxblood Captoe Lace-Up

What do you do when someone steals your favorite pair of Ralph Lauren leather captoe boots (see way back, here)? You upgrade them with a bad-ass pair of handmade Italian oxbloods.

These, in my opinion, are close to the “perfect” boot. Oxblood leather, 8″ lace-up, brogue captoe, rubber sole, perfect last shape (notice the toe box – not square but not round).

Where I wore this: Vintage shopping.

Bonus Tip: Colors are starting to lighten up as Spring approaches and we begin seeing sunny days again.

Bonus Tip II: Transitional times are coming – soon it will be time to start mixing fabrics and colors (light blue unlined cotton trench over wide-wale corduroy vest and oxford shirt, for example).

Oxblood boots by Scarpe di Bianco (custom made, my own design). Blue gradient trench by Burberry Prorsum (size 50). Grey oxford button-down by Onassis Clothing(size M). Corduroy vest by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own design). Jeans by Polo Ralph Lauren (size 34).

sursa:thestyleblogger.com

Fall/Winter FORMALWEAR

Well, here are 4 ways to stand out (in a goood way) wearing black tie formal – whether it’s a big night out or your big day.

1. The Midnight Shawl Tuxedo

Everybody has a black tuxedo – it’s been done a million times. A subtle way to stand-out from the colorless crowd – go with a very dark (almost black) midnight blue tuxedo. And don’t worry it’s not “trendy”, men have been wearing midnight tuxedos for decades. In fact, many purists (especially English purists) will tell you that it is the proper choice because it actually looks darkest and richer under evening light.

Although the fabric of the tuxedo is midnight blue, the lapels, pocket trimings, covered buttons and pant stripe are typically black satin or, in this case, black grosgrain (which gives the trimming a sharp and distinct look because of it’s subtle ribbed texture).

Tuxedo tips:

• Go one button, with a low stance – creating a longer, more lengthening (and thus more flattering) “V” shape.
• Cut it slim. Garments look dressier and sharper the slimmer they fit (within reason and without being “tight”). Therefore, your tuxedo should be your slimmest, most sharply tailored garment.
• For a clean and minimal look, go with a hidden placket shirt with a point collar (not spread, which is more appropriate for business). And french cuffs, of course. The fabric should be a solid white with a visible texture (like this gentle birdseye) which gives the shirt substance and makes it look more formal. Leave the poplins for the yachts.
• Leave the straight ties for the office. It’s a tux – go with a bowtie (if you’re wearing a shawl collar, it’s a must). Traditionally, the bowtie should be cut from the same cloth as the tuxedo’s lapels & trimmings (again, in this case, black grosgrain).
• Keep your cufflinks simple, elegant, and a stick to silver, black and/or white palette. I’m partial to these black onyx links for formalwear.
• A black alligator watchband is the most formal choice (as is a simple, uncolored and non-oversized 30-35 mm watch face).
• Tuxedos are minimal garments. Originally men wore these simple black & white outfits to let women in their gowns garner the deserved attention. With that said, tuxedo trousers should not have belt loops. Go with side-adjusters (preferably button adjusters over metal slides) or a plain waistband with suspenders.
• Back in the day the standard tuxedo was ventless. But that was back in the day. A double vented jacket is most flattering and looks most chic.
• Going sockless with a formal look is not a good idea. Your hosiery should be thin and tight so they keep their shape and don’t slide down the ankle. As with a suit, they should be one shade darker than your trousers

Bonus Tip: if you are only going to have one bespoke garment, make it a tuxedo. Black tie events are the one time when a man should look his absolute best.

Bonus Tip II: leave your jacket on, and keep it fastened during the ceremony or formal portion of the evening. Once the the drinks start flowing and the music gets turned up, its fair game to lose it.

Midnight blue tuxedo, white hidden-placket shirt and black grosgrain bowtie all byMichael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Navy velvet loafers byScarpe di Bianco. Cufflinks by Jan Leslie. Watch and strap by Montblanc.

The irony of a tuxedo is that it’s the one garment that should always look pristine, but it’s also the one garment that is most likely to get dirty since it’s typically worn for celebratory occasions.

Last time I wore mine the next morning it had a number of stains on it – liquor, cigar ashes, lipstick, and who knows what else. Just make sure to bring it to the cleaners the next day, so that stains don’t settle and it’s ready for your next Hurrah.

2. Velvet Dinner Jacket + 3-Button Shawl Vest

Velvet, which is essentially corduroy without the ribbing, is a Fall/Winter fabric. Not only does the texture and sheen stand out from the crowd, but it is also functional in keeping you warm.

This is a slightly more “dandy” look, so I went with a pleated shirt (1/2″ pleats on the bib), shirt studs, and a formal waistcoat (which is cut in a lower “U-Shape” with a three-button front, sort of like a contemporary take on the outdated cumberbun which serves the traditional function of covering the waistband).

Aside from a shawl collar, which is strictly formal, a full peak lapel is your best (and most classic) choice. It accentuates the chest and shoulders and dramatizes the tapering at the waist.

Remember, it’s a velvet dinner jacket not a velvet tuxedo. These are the same pants from Look 1 above. I hate to say never, but don’t go full velvet.

Bonus Tip: there is a current dilema in contemporary formal wear. Men have, for all intensive purposes, stopped wearing cumberbuns (although I do like them, on tall slim guys).  The problem is, when you wear a studded-front shirt (which has only 4 stud holes) without a cumberbun, the bottom one or two (depending on how tall you are) shirt buttons are visible. There are four potential solutions to this. One – keep your jacket buttoned at all times to hide the exposed shirt buttons (not practical). Two – find a set of six studs (which is nearly impossible) or buy two sets and have your shirt cut with 6 stud holes. Three – wear a vest to cover the exposed 2 buttons (as shown here). Four (recommended) – have the four stud holes cut through a hidden placket shirt.

Bonus Tip II: as I’ve said a million times, breaking the rules can make for a very stylish outfit. In this case, rather than matching the bowtie fabric to the lapels and trims, I had it cut from the same velvet as the jacket. Special thanks to Carolina Montesino for hand-making this bowtie!

Midnight velvet one-button dinner jacket, 3-button shawl collar waistcoat, pleated/studded shirt, and midnight tux trousers all by Michael Andrews (bespoke, my own designs). Shirt studs and cufflinks by Tiffany & Co. Watch and strap by Montblanc. Black seamless leather lace-up shoes by Ferragamo Tramezza.

Bonus Tip III: since velvet can get a little warm, I usually pair this jacket with a waistcoat. The beauty of a waistcoat is that once you lose the jacket (and hit the dance floor) you still look sharp and buttoned-up since the “billowing” of your shirt is hidden. It’s also a sliming garment for heavier guys who take their jackets off.

Bonus Tip IV: while a pleated shirt cannot double as a business shirt, a studded shirt can. Your tailor should provide a removable placket to replace the stud holes with regular shirt buttons.

Bonus Tip V: leave the patent leather shoes for the rental shops. Go with a seamless black leather lace-up shoe instead. Again, the more minimal the better. This is not a time to show off your cool new brogues or captoes.

3. White Diner Jacket

A white dinner jacket is not actually white, it’s ivory. It’s also typically worn in warmer weather – but personally I think it looks even more chic with snow is on the ground. Winter white.

This one, in fact, is cut from a heavy 10-once cloth, which is certainly more appropriate for January than July.

Again, it’s a dinner jacket. Pair it with your tux pants (these ones are, once again, the same pants from look 1 above). The midnight pants give a great subtle “pop” under a white jacket.

It doesn’t get much more minimal than this jacket. One self-covered button, besom pockets (no flaps) and no breast pocket. Clean.

White dinner jacket, midnight tux trousers, white shirt and black grosgrain bowtie all by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Silk scarf Vintage. Loafers by Bally. Watch and strap by Montblanc.

On Formal Grooming: as you probably have realized, I’m rarely clean shaven. I have no need to shave and like the way I look with light stubble. For formal occassions, however, always be clean shaven. And have your cleanly and neatly arranged (however you do it).

Bonus Tip: a subtle accesory for formalwear is a black silk scarf. I love the way it pops under a white dinner jacket (something you can’t do if you follow the “rules” and only wear the white jacket come summer).

Bonus Tip II: the midnight tux pants

Bonus Tip II: you can wear loafers. Just makes sure they are black, shined and brogue-less.

4. Semi Formal? The Bad-Ass Grey Suit Option

“Semi Formal” fools alot of guys. What does that even mean? For me, it’s a great excuse to look sharp, and bad-ass at the same time.

Go with a slim charcoal grey peak-lapel suit, white french-cuff shirt, black straight tie and formal accessories (watch, cufflinks, suspenders, shoes, etc.)

Bonus Tip: need outerwear for your formalwear look? Go with a black chesterfield (distinguished by it’s velvet collar), preferably with covered buttons, like this one. It would work over all 4 looks.

Charcoal grey suit and white shirt both by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Chesterfield coat by Brooks Brothers Black Fleece (size 2). Tie by Ralph Lauren Black Label. Tie Bar by Tiffany & Co (2″). Formal suspenders by Trafalgar. Gloves by Saks Fifth Avenue. Shoes by Ferragamo Tramezza.

Bonus Tip II: unlined black leather gloves are not only formal and slim enough to send a text-message, but there is also something murderous about them. Maybe I’m f*cked up, but there is something I like about that.

One Last Bonus: if you invest in the right tuxedo, and have a certain level of panache, you can wear it for more casual occasions as well. See here for the jacket as separate, and here for the pants on their own.

sursa:thestyleblogger.com

Fall/Winter Headwear, Part II

1. Worsted Cadet Cap

Cool, similarly-shaped but slightly more unique, warm and “style-forward” than your typical every-guy baseball cap.

This olive cadet cap is cut from a traditional menswear blazer fabric (olive worsted wool with subtle yellow windowpane pattern) which looks great with a casual, laid-back look.

I slip this thing one whenever I’m rushing out the door without time, or will, to style my hair (at times I miss having a short buzz-cut…considering bringing it back for summer 2011).

*New Feature: Where I Wore This: Menswear illustration class at FIT.

Olive wool cadet cap by Hats in the Belfry. Wool herringbone down vest by Penfield (size S). Chambray shirt by Rag&Bone (size M). Henley by Polo Ralph Lauren (size M). Brown corduroys by H&M (34). Belt by Banana Republic. Shoes by LL Bean. Leather wrap bracelet from NYC street vendor. Watch by Montblanc.

2. Cashmere Ivy/Driving Cap

Black cashmere ivy cap by Hats in the Belfry. Grey suit, white shirt and herringbone tie all by Michael Andrews Bespoke (custom made, my own designs). Loafers by Bally. Leather gloves by Saks Fifth Avenue. Cashmere scarf by Johnston’s of Scotland. 2″ silver tie bar by Tiffany & Co.

The “Ivy” or “Driver” is a traditional cap that can be worn for a number of occasions, depending on the color and fabric. A black 100% cashmere, for example, works well dressed-up. A herringbone Harris Tweed, on the other hand, works better casually (see look 4 below).

Bonus tip: this is not a “newsboy” cap. The ivy cap has a one-piece top making it slightly more sleek and streamlined than the traditional newsboy (also called a “cabbie” or “Gatsby” after the Great Gatsby) which has a rounder, fuller, paneled top with a button.

Where I Wore This: corporate event where I gave a presentation about building and accessorizing the “perfect” business wardrobe.

3. Corduroy Trapper

On those “freeze your #$% off” kind of cold days, you need all the help you can get. It doesn’t get much warmer than a fur trapper hat, especially one rendered in a winter-weight fabric like wool flannel, knit cashmere or this brown corduroy.

Bonus Tip: I picked up this vintage military parka for $40. It was bulky and oversized. I had both the body and the sleeves tapered and now it’s one of my favorite outerwear pieces for blizzard-like conditions. This is the warmest coat I’ve ever owned, and I’ve worn it with just about everything this winter, from a sharp business suit to a chunky knit cardigan.

Where I Wore This: running errands/grocery shopping (on a cold winter afternoon).

Corduroy/fur trapper hat from NYC Street Vendor. Vintage olive parka. Cardigan by Caufield Prepatory (size 3). Jeans by APC (“new standard” 32). Boots by Kenneth Cole. Gloves by Hilts & Willard.

4. Tweed Ivy Cap

As mentioned above in look 2, a tweed Ivy cap is a traditional rugged cap that works best with a casual look.

Bonus Tip: wearing an ascot (especially a silk one) with a casual look can be fairly tricky as it inherently implies formality. A “neckercheif” (cotton bandana or small square scarf) loosely rolled and tied around the neck is a more casual, rugged, and surprisingly “manly” alternative. If you’re going to try it: just like with an ascot, unbutton only the top shirt button and make sure to push the wrap as low as possible on your neck, so that it just “peeks” out subtly. On top of being an unusual accessory, I like the neckerchief because it keeps the neck warm without the hassle of taking it off and storing it indoors (as with a traditional scarf). More on neckwear coming soon.

Bonus Tip II: it’s always nice to implement something with a little sentimental value, or a piece that has a bit of a story into your look. This “neckerchief”, for example, is an old bandana that my oldest brother Leo used to wear on his head during his days as a local soccer star.

Where I Wore This: casual meeting with workshop pattern-maker to finalize production details.

Tweed ivy cap by JCrew. Oxford shirt by Thom Browne (size 2). Tweed vest byMichael Andrews Bespoke (my own design, part of THIS three-piece suit). Chunky sweater by Polo Ralph Lauren (size M). Neckerchief vintage bandana. Belt by Banana Republic. Brown cords by H&M (34). Boots by Kenneth Cole. Wooden bead bracelets from NYC Street Vendor.

sursa:thestyleblogger.com