Don't Be So Old-Timey
When we say "vintage," we don't mean rusty antique pocket watches from a flea market. The watches we're talking about are mechanical (the kind you wind yourself), simple (you don't need to know the moon's phases), and above all, iconic. Like these.← Bulova (military issue)
It's affordable and looks like the Timex Vintage Field Watch that J.Crew sells, except this model's the real deal, worn by GIs in the '60s.
$300 ♦ clockfixer.com
← Patek Philippe Calatrava
Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava's been the quintessential black-tie watch. Get a '50s or newer; older models are too tiny (see below).
$8,495 ♦ parkandbond.com
← Heuer Carrera
Carreras from the '60s combine a goes-with-everything shape and retro racing swagger (check the stopwatch subdials).
$2,500 to $7,500
← Cartier Tank
The Tank nails the masculine-modern-elegant trifecta, which explains why Ali, Warhol, and Gary Cooper all wore one.
$5,950 ♦ tourneau.com
← Rolex Submariner
The Sub is the dive watch and looks killer with a blazer. Careful: Rare details, like a gold (not white) Rolex logo, add big money.
$7,500 ♦ parkandbond.com
Why's My Hand So Big?
Next to modern, pizza-sized watches, some vintage ones are like Bagel Bites—the Bulova's case size is only 33 millimeters. Size up to 36 millimeters (the Heuer) or bigger if you're burly-wristed.
Turn One Watch into Three
Swap the strap on a watch (in this case, a 1960s Longines) and you've got a whole new timepiece. |
 |  |  |
| From Dressy... | Quality croc skin in brown or black lets 'em know you'll be in your corner office. | ...to Sporty... | A nylon strap is supposed to stick out. Go bright, go striped, and enjoy the clash. | ...to Rugged | You don't have to hike a trail to break out a chunky, weathered leather strap. |
| Strap $100 | aaronfaber.com | Strap $20 | jcrew.com | Strap $165 | aaronfaber.com |
Embrace the Scrapes
...and other tips from Benjamin Clymer, editor of watch blog Hodinkee and Parkandbond.com vintage-watch guru
1 A fifty-year-old watch should look old. If it looks like it just came from the factory, something's off.2 Replacement parts sink a watch's value. Take Rolex and Patek, the two most collectible brands: The original dial (the face) holds 60 to 70 percent of the watch's worth.3 Some collectors ask for the original box and papers, but they don't matter. Few people kept them. I don't even do it now.4 If a watch hasn't been serviced in five to ten years, plan to have it done yourself. It costs $300 or more.5 Always ask about the return policy.
Revisionist History for Your Wrist
Watch collectors are kind of obsessive. Case in point: Alejandro Alcocer, a fashion designer and caterer, heard a few years back that Rolex once made 500 all-black watches for British soldiers stationed in South Africa in the '60s. When he couldn't find one, he hatched a new plan and collected 350 vintage Rolexes—fifty each of seven styles, including this Explorer II—and turned them black himself. They're punk meets past, and when they're gone, they're gone.
$19,500 | blackltdedition.com
I Stole it on eBay
The best stores and sites to find the vintage watch you've been jonesing for |
| | | On One Hand | On the Other Hand |
| The Specialists | Aaron Faber (N.Y.C.), Matthew Bain (Miami), Tourneau | They're vintage hunters who can find that pristine Omega Ranchero; the watches are impeccable; you can try everything out in-store. | You won't find a deal (though you won't get ripped off, either); limited locations; they don't get out of bed for watches under a grand. |
| The Curators | Steven Alan, J.Crew, ParkandBond.com, Club Monaco | Their stock is filled with classics in stellar condition; sourced by pros—the watch equivalent of a greatest-hits collection. | Numbers are limited; experts aren't on hand to answer questions; you're paying extra for the stores to get a cut. |
| The Web | Chrono24.com, eBay | Chrono24 is an international crowd of reputable watch dealers with a massive selection. If you're gonna find a steal, it'll be on eBay... | ...And if you're gonna get ripped off, it'll be on eBay—do some research, and trust your gut if it says the deal's too good. |
Read More http://www.gq.com/style/wear-it-now/201204/how-to-buy-vintage-watches#ixzz1ppgT0UdR
