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marți, 21 februarie 2012

The High/Low: Tailored Jackets & Hoodies


1. Brisk Corporate Morning
This has been one of the mildest winters I can remember. When heading to a business meeting, in February, I can use a hoody under my suit jacket rather than a bulky overcoat.
The hoody has to be slim through the body and sleeves, you might want to consider sizing down.
A full-zip hoody is ideal because you can zip it down to create a v-neck shape similar to that of a cardigan.
A double zip is even better since you can open the bottom as well – creating a silhouette even more like a cardigan (on which you shouldn’t be fastening the bottom button – the same rule that applies to a tailored jacket).
THE POWER OF SHOES…
This is a new feature we might start including once in a while in posts.
You’ve heard it a million times. “The shoes make the man”. “A women notices a mans shoes first”. Etc.
All cliches aside, your selection of footwear really can make or break (or complete change the feel of) an outfit.
For the three outfits in this post, I styled them with two different shoes, giving two quick variations on the same look.
The first look above – with the wingtips – is something I would wear to the office (you can always take the hoody off when you get there).
The second look – with the sneakers – is something I would wear to an event, or a show, or a nice restaurant. Or, on my commute to work since I always leave a pair of dress shoes at the office/studio.
Suit and shirt by Michael Andrews Bespoke (my first custom suit, 4+ years old). Hoody by Theory (S). Knit tie by Polo Ralph Lauren (purchased at a “vintage” store). Wingtips (first look) by Florsheim. Sneakers by Vans. Watch by Montblanc. Grosgrain watchstrap by Corvus. 
2. Wearing a Suit Just Because You Want to Wear a Suit
I hear it from guys all the time: “I want to wear suits and tailored pieces more often, but I never have occasions to wear them.”
Here’s an easy solution: you don’t need an “occasion”,  just wear your suit.
It’s a fact, men look good in suits. Girls like it. Your parents like it. And most importantly, YOU like it.
The best part is, it’s easy. The jacket matches the pants…75% of your outfit is already put together.
There are plenty of “laidback” suits on the market now – from Uniqlo to Michael Bastian. Soft shoulders, partial lining, textured fabric, slim leg, etc. These are the easiest to wear casually – with sneakers, for example.
However, that doesn’t mean you can’t dress-down a sharp suit. This charcoal grey peak lapel number sometimes serves as my “semi formal” suit (as featured HERE).
As always, fit is critical.
 THE POWER OF SHOES…
Loafers (and glasses) can make the look a little more mature and serious.
I love these glasses with the removable shaded lenses – saves you from having to carry two pairs…and gaining you some definite style points.
Suit by Michael Andrews Bespoke. T-shirt by Alexander Wang (size M). Hoody by Theory (size S). Sneakers (first look) by Nike (Blazers). Loafers (second look) by Scarpe di Bianco. Glasses with removable shaded lenses by Garrett Leight. 
3. Kicking it On the Weekend
The right blazer can sharpen a very casual look and take it up a level. This is just a simple casual look – hoody, jeans, boots – with my “perfect blue blazer” over it.
More news on the Read-to-Wear collaboration with MAB coming soon in the upcoming video episode.
Sometimes going without a pocket square is more natural. When it’s a really laid back look, you don’t need to add a fussy accessory like a pocket square.
THE POWER OF SHOES…
Another question I get often: “You seem to “dress up” alot. What do you wear if you’re just hanging around the house, or running to the grocery store”.
Here is an example. Just jeans and sneakers. And perhaps I’ll throw on a tailored blazer when I step outside.
The Detroit D reminds me of my hometown – just across the border.
My favorite Jordan. Been wearing these since the 9th grade. I always keep a pair, and always will.
Blue blazer by MAB by Dan Trepanier. Navy hoody by Club Monaco (M). Jeans by Polo Ralph Lauren. Shades by Persol. Wingtips boots (first look) by Paul Smith. Sneakers (second look) Air Jordan III. New Era fitted cap. Watch by Montblanc. 
Here are some other Hoody + Jacket looks I’ve featured on the site over the past year:
From Post: Hoody Layering


sursa:thestyleblogger.com

How to Wear Man Jewelry feat. Philip Crangi (Part II)


1. Workwear to Work 
“This is a bit of a work wear look for me.  As a matter of fact I wear this to work almost every day.”
“The toughness of this hex nut cuff goes well with this outfit. It’s a really wearable piece”
I’m not a big fan of mens bracelets, mainly because they’ve become a craze and it’s gone too far. I see guys wearing dozens of different wrist wraps in multiple colors and fabrics…it’s too much.
Philip does it right. He keeps it simple, with the focus on one awesome piece (that happens to be a perfect match for his wicked vintage Barbour).
Vintage Barbour jacket. Inhabit cashmere cardigan. J. Crew flannel shirt. Vintage Helmut Lang jeans. Comme des garçon wool scarf. Comme Des Garçon Dr.Martens. Giles & Brother Leather Hex Nut Cuff. Hermes Cape Cod watch.
2. Professor, “Worn in Luxury 101″“This professorial look is achieved with both the classic signet ring and lizard loafers.”
“The vintage Saville Row tweed blazer, like the gold hook bracelet, have a kind of worn in luxury that compliment each other well.”
Brown/green jacket, brown/green shades.
Vintage tweed, worn in cords, washed scarf.
Ostrich skin watchband, lizard skin loafers.
The little touches that bring his outfits together are subtle and tasteful.
The outfit gets better the more you learn about it and see the details.
Vintage tweed jacket. Dries Van Notten linen and silk sweater. RRL corduroys. Churches loafers. Inhabit cashmere and cotton scarf. Hermes Arceau watch. Barton Perreira sunglasses. Giles & Brother 14k gold hook with leather lashing. Vintage signet ring
3. Past Meet Present
“I’ve been feeling kind of nostalgic.  There is something about an ’80s proportion, not exactly “Buffalo” but with a nod to that kind of look.”
“This vintage coat was such a great find.  It feels so modern but it is from the ’50s.
These understated Giles & Brother pieces add clean modern lines to an otherwise vintage look.”
So much artistic personality in this look – from the graphic print, to the bandana scarf, to the white socks.
Vintage mohair coat. Keith Haring by Patricia Field sweatshirt. APC jeans. Vintage bandana. Hermes belt. Churches shoes. Giles & Brother Black visor bracelet and Black hook with leather lashing.
4. Sea Captain Swag“This is a favorite “winter in new york” outfit. Maybe it’s the blond beard but I tend to default to the seafarer look.”
  “The hex nut cuff and the id bracelet in black compliment the mood.”I love how Philips looks are often drawn from a specific inspiration – workwear, professorial, vintage, seafarer, etc.
It’s a common trait among designers I think.Vintage U.S. Navy peacoat. Prada wool cardigan. Commes Des Garçon shirt. Acne jeans. Red Wing boots. Giles & Brother Hex nut cuff hematite and Black Braided Leather ID Wrap Bracelet. 
5. Masculine EleganceMasculine jewelry isn’t reserved for casual occasions.
With a suited look, though, the touches should be even more minimal and subtle.“Cognac diamonds set in dark steel rings give this dress up look the right edge – one of the few cases where men look good in diamonds”Even his suited look is full of personality – the play on dark colors/fabrics, the flare on the pants, the minimal collar pin, the perforated slip-ons, the chunky tortoise shades, the badassbelt…Sabitino suit. Kolor shirt. Prada shoes. Jill Sander tie. Louis Vuitton belt. Tom Ford sunglasses.


sursa:thestyleblogger.com

H&M, top 10 piese esentiale pentru garderoba masculina de vara


Colectiile pentru sezonul primavara-vara 2012 mai au un pic si vor popula magazinele, iar cu toate ca barbatii au dedicate colturile cele mai mici, iertam brand-urile pentru ca hainele acestor colectii par sa strige „love fashion, love life”.
Cu un optimism incurabil, inainte de a merge la cumparaturi eu zic ca trebuie sa iti alegi cateva item-uri „must have” ale acestui sezon, iar H&M iti propune un top cu zece piese esentiale care nu trebuie sa iti lipseasca din garderoba in aceasta vara.
H&M, dupa cum am putut vedea pana acum din fotografii, propune un sezon versatil, insa usor lipsit de culoare, atentia intreptandu-se catre croieli care nu te vor lasa indiferent.
Nu pot spune ca mi-a sarit ceva diferit in ochi, insa pantofii sunt o propunere buna. De ce? Pentru ca imi da impresia ca brand-ul suedez si-a oferit un timp pentru a scoate ceva inovator, in tendinte, colorat si un model chiar indraznet as zice, pantoful cu platforma. Este delicat, iar cei care isi doresc acei 2-3 centimetri in plus chiar trebuie sa ii treaca pe lista de cumparaturi.
Tinutele sunt majoritatea simple, de bun gust, unde pantalonii sunt suflecati, iar accesoriile vin sub forma unui ceas sau curea.
Culorile protagoniste ale acestui sezon par sa fie alb, albastru si maro, iar tinutele „all nude” sunt excluse, H&M venind cu ceva albastru si alb ca sa sparga monotonia. O concluzie? Cele trei culori de mai sus pot sa fie combinate sub orice forma si cu siguranta tinuta o sa fie bine alcatuita, chiar daca mergi la sigur.
Nu uita:
  • Se poarta sosetele cu imprimeu – „british affaire!”
  • Cardiganul cu dunga fina colorata
  • Tricourile gri sunt un „must”
  • Tinutele per total sunt in tendinte, mergi la sigur si cu siguranta nu se vor demoda.


sursa:modamasculina.ro

Cum porți pantalonii, în ghete sau peste ele?


În acest sezon de sfârșit de iarnă, mulți bărbați au purtat pantalonii în ghete. Pentru unii au reprezentat o declarație de stil, iar alții s-au folosit de utilitate pentru a își proteja pantaloni de a se murdări.
Această mișcare este considerată că și-ar trage originile de la militari. Soldații  precum și călăreții se foloseau de acest truc pentru “a nu se încurca” în acel surplus de material.
Cel mai bine mi se pare că arată atunci când sunt purtați în ghete înalte sau cizme. O altă regulă de aur este că pantalonii nu trebuie să fie foarte largi pentru că acel surplus de material nu dă foarte bine.
Un alt accent de care de poți folosi, este să-ți scoți șosetele de lână peste pantaloni pentru a ține mai bine pantalonii.
Eu personal nu am ghete foarte înalte, dar și dacă le-aș avea nu aș purta pantalonii în ele. Este o decizie personală, dar mi-ar place să-i rulez mai ales că am la unii pantaloni manșete colorate.
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sursa:stilmasculin.ro