GANT's Rugger collection has carved quite the sportswear niche in its short period of rebirth, and much of that is due to Swedish designer Christopher Bastin's blessings on the lineup that remains smart and sartorial without sacrificing solace. For spring 2012, Bastin threw the proverbial kitchen sink of the current state of menswear into a caldron, stoked the fire and boiled the shit out of it. What emerged is something he calls "Nouveau Prep," and we took some time to talk to him about it.
The GQ Eye: You have a ton of inspiration mashed up into the finished product for spring. Talk about the process when you first sat down to design it; what were the first things you knew you wanted to do and had to do?
Christopher Bastin: You got me! It really is a mash up of a lot of influences. In previous seasons there was always a super clear picture of where the inspiration was from, and it's taken a while to really nail down the vibe of the line since the relaunch. The challenge for spring 2012 was how to take GANT Rugger forward and not rest on our American Sportswear heritage. We go to to all the trade shows, which is always an interesting experience, and I always find the people attending to be the most fascinating. I've really been inspired by what Tommy Ton has captured. He finds the spirit within the crowd at shows better than anyone else: all kinds of different people. And I kept those guys in mind while designing and thought to myself how those guys would wear our stuff. We'll see what happens, but I have to set the bar high, right?
If you want to keep their attention, you can't live on archives and re-hashing heritage pieces forever. We've got to be a bit bolder. I knew I wanted a dressier touch to it and to add some Italian Sprezz and a bit of British stiff-upper-lip. In many ways the new collection reflects what GANT has been about for the past 30 years: American sportswear with a uniquely European sensibility. Although there's a plethora of inspiration, I think I've managed to keep it together.
Finding out about 'The Gants' was almost too good to be true. The Gants were a 1960s pop group who chose the name because they wore GANT shirts all the time and loved them. We've been in touch with the band (they are still touring today!) and are working closely with them to gather lots of old band memorabilia. You'll start seeing some of that imagery very soon. It's really unbelievable. And we had no idea! The 60s was an amazing time for menswear and Gant was incredibly influential during that time.
Finding out about 'The Gants' was almost too good to be true. The Gants were a 1960s pop group who chose the name because they wore GANT shirts all the time and loved them. We've been in touch with the band (they are still touring today!) and are working closely with them to gather lots of old band memorabilia. You'll start seeing some of that imagery very soon. It's really unbelievable. And we had no idea! The 60s was an amazing time for menswear and Gant was incredibly influential during that time.
GQ: In your paragraph on the inspiration for spring 2012, you mention "the opinion leader who doesn't even know he's in the lead." That line caught our eye. Is it true the coolest cat at the party usually has no idea he's "it?"
Bastin: It doesn't happen often, but when you do come across a person who's genuinely cool without even trying, it's extremely inspiring. What's better than to have that guy in mind when designing? Effortlessly cool is something that has always been a motto for me. And let's face it, a dude who "knows" he's the bomb... never is.
GQ: Any favorite pieces in the line?
GQ: Any favorite pieces in the line?
Bastin: Our "Summer Chino" came out really nice. It's a lightweight over-constructed twill, in a pile of smashing colors. It also got a bit of stretch in it, (something I normally hate), that makes it extremely comfy in spite of it's slim cut. Perfect for roundhouse kicks and/or break-dancing. I also nixed the two-inch cuff for a half-inch stitched roll. There's a war going on right now on Tumblr about cuffs and breaks and I intend to win that war. Our new selection of garment dyed oxfords that we've washed for hours: they turned out so unbelievably soft that we call them the "Dreamy Oxford". It's a perfect combo to build on in amazing colors, like: navy, bright red, and of course classic blue.
GQ: Talk about your creative relationship with Michael Bastian, so to speak, do you guys compare notes on a lot of the stuff for your respective collections?
GQ: Talk about your creative relationship with Michael Bastian, so to speak, do you guys compare notes on a lot of the stuff for your respective collections?
Bastin: Michael Bastian is a very inspiring guy and whenever we're in Stockholm together and have time to talk (see: smoke & espresso break) there's always something that I take a mental note of. I'm a fabric nerd and if I come across a swatch or a vintage piece that I think he would like, I pass it along. He is an amazing storyteller and to discuss collection themes with him is a bit like a roller coaster: there's always something wonderfully weird going on inside his head. Unfortunately we're always so busy with our respective lines that there's hardly any time to ever catch up properly. I wish we had more time to pick each other's brains, who knows what would come of it? Maybe we'll have time during Fashion's Night Out [at the GANT Rugger shop.] Should be a fun running around the city together. See you at Prince Street!
Both Bastin and Michael Bastian will both be a part of a special evening at the new GANT Rugger shop at 25 Prince St. on Thursday evening to celebrate Fashion's Night Out. Customers will be able to preview and pre-order the spring collection in the store, and the installation will be up through the remainder of NYFW.
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